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Which extruder you'd like to have = the Perimeters printed with.
How thick you want each layer to b=
e on the Z-axis. Smaller means finer resolution and better print quality, b=
ut also means many more layers you'll have to print, which can dramatically=
increase print time.
Most profiles use the following:
Fast prints: .3 mm
Medium: .2 mm
High Quali=
ty: .1 mm
The number of 100% infill layers t= hat will be placed at the top of your part. If you notice that there's some= incomplete filling your top layers, I would recommend raising this value f= rom 3 to 5 and increasing the extrusion multiplier slightly under the Extru= der tab if needed.
The number of 100% infill layers t= hat will be placed at the bottom of your part.
Outline shells will trace the outl= ine of your part, and extrude at your extrusion thickness. The printer will= print the outline shells, then print Infill afterwards. I traditionally pr= int with 2 Outline Shells.
It will print your perimeter shell= s from the inner shell to the outer most shell. This is very beneficial whe= n printing overhangs, as the print is branching out in the X-Y direction fo= r each layer.
It will print your perimeter shell= s from the outer most shell to the inner most shell. This is better for sur= face quality finish usually. For instance, if printing a cube, this may be = the better route.
Lets say you are printing the part= below. If you went from pillar to pillar in the most efficient order, you = may get to the next layer so quickly there may be issues with heat-build up= and the previous layer not being solidified. Therefore, you can turn off o= ptimization, and then it will print the pillars in a random-order therefore= helping you prevent from heat-build up.
The extruder will print with one o= utline/perimeter shell and won't make any retracts. This means that it will= slowly move up in the Z as it prints, imagine spiraling upwards, instead o= f printing a static layer, than moving upwards to do another layer. Traditi= onally with vases the best settings I've found are Zero top solid layers, 3= Bottom Solid Layers, and under the Advanced tab enable "Merge all outlines= into a single solid model".
(These are applied to where the Be= d touches your model. If you have a raft, that means the First Layer Settin= gs will apply to your raft).
This % will take a % of your Prima=
ry Layer Height. If you are printing with a small Primary Layer Height like=
.1 mm I would recommend a First Layer Height of 250%, to get about a resul=
ting .25 mm first layer height
If your First Layer Height is below 100%, the extrusion amount will=
remain the same, only the Z-will change, but if you increase above 100%, t=
he extrusion amount will scale accordingly.
the extrusion width of your first = layer, you may find that your first layer sticks better with a thicker extr= usion (100%+). I don't have too much experience with this, but I think 125%= or 150% would be good starting points.
Slows down the First Layer Speed t= o a percentage of your Default Printing Speed (Other tab)
Certain printers find that there a= re very small voids at the starting points. This can create a seam on the p= rint. Start points can options can help for both controlling where these vo= ids (the seam) goes, but also help for print time.
Randomizes the starting points
Optimizes starting points by findi= ng the closest location for the next starting point. When generating G-Code= you can see the travel moves, traditionally this option really minimizes t= he amount of red lines that signify travel moves you will see on the G-Code= previewer.
This can be useful if you want to = line-up your starting points on a certain part of your print, so the seam i= sn't obvious or is hidden.